By Jae-Ha Kim
Chicago Sun-Times
September 23, 2004
For women of a certain generation, figuring out what to wear to a gala, ball or some other grand black-tie extravaganza is as simple as stepping into a favorite gown and heels. But for those who have never been to one before, getting dressed up for a really fancy event can be a daunting affair.
Should you opt for a floor-length gown or a shimmering cocktail dress? Is black the ultimate color, or can you get away with pastels and prints? Is it better to be overdressed or underdressed? And then, what about coats — should you shiver or risk looking unchic by throwing on a parka?
“A black tie opening night should be something very special,” says designer George Simonton, who’s also an instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “Going to the theater in a beautiful pant suit is OK. But for an opening, it shows respect to the event and the artists to dress more grand.”
When it comes to color, black is always in, but don’t be scared away by the array of hues designers are offering — green (whether it’s emerald or olive) is huge this season, as are purple, lavender, yellow and red. Midnight navy is a nice alternative to black as well. However, bear in mind that a particularly trendy color of the moment may not fare so well a year — or even three months — down the line.
“If the color’s not in season, then it automatically becomes a ‘closet dress,’ ” Simonton says. “Or you risk people recognizing it and saying, ‘Oh, she’s wearing that mint green thing again.’ It’s easier to re-wear black.”
Jane magazine senior fashion editor Eric Nicholson also recommends white — except for a black-tie wedding. “It can make a powerful, dramatic fashion statement in the fall and winter,” he says.
At last weekend’s opening night gala at the Lyric Opera House, we were pleased to see Chicago women came dressed to thrill in their gorgeous eveningwear. Here are four who dressed up just right for a night at the opera.
Occupation: Junior in college.
What she’s wearing: “A Rickie Freeman dress I got a couple years ago for one of my high school proms. It’s not a couture designer thing.”
Years she’s been attending black-tie events: “I’ve actually just started. I used to go see my sister sing in operas [when she was in college], but this is the fanciest event I’ve been to. My mom is trying to get me more into all this. She’s a big advocate of the arts.”
Why this dress: “My mom guided me. I got in from college that afternoon and she had some dresses lined up for me to pick out. She was my stylist for the night, which was good because I didn’t know how dressy it was supposed to be. It was so much fun. I loved the whole experience. It was very glamorous and was incredible seeing all the people dressed up.”
Your biggest black-tie fashion faux pas: “I was a little overdressed for my senior prom. I usually don’t mind standing out a little, but it was more of a casual thing.”
Occupation: Physician
What she’s wearing: A bronze gold gown by Helen Morley.
Years she’s been attending black-tie events: “At least 10. I’ve always dressed up for opening nights and special occasions. I enjoy the pageantry.”
Why this dress: “With this being the opera’s golden jubilee, I wanted to take it up a notch. I thought my dress should reflect the magnificent occasion it is. It’s almost like pulling out the fine china when you want to savor a great meal.”
Your biggest black-tie fashion faux pas: “The first year I went, I felt I was underdressed because I just wore a cocktail dress, which is acceptable but didn’t capture the magic of opening night. Formal was more appropriate.”
Occupation: Sales
What she’s wearing: A striking red gown and matching shrug — all by BCBG. Schopp wears her blond hair pulled back into a simple, low ponytail.
Years she’s been attending black-tie events: “I’ve been to other black-tie events, but there’s nothing like the opera. I went to the opera last year and that was pretty much the only other time.”
Why this dress: “I looked everywhere and liked this the best. It fit really well, which helped with the decision-making process. I bought this specifically for the event.”
Your biggest black-tie fashion faux pas: “I don’t think I’ve had one. I actually have an interest in fashion so I try to keep up, but it’s also
important to please yourself. Women need to remember to wear something they’re comfortable in — they don’t want to be pulling and tugging on their dress all night.”
Occupation: Publicist
What she’s wearing: A winter white gown by Ralph Lauren and an Anne Dee Goldin fox stole.
Years she’s been attending black-tie events: “Throughout college… so probably for about the last seven years.”
Why this dress: “I had the dress and loved it; the fur was a gift, and the vintage necklace is a favorite. I just thought they all looked so amazing together. I liked that the dress was strapless and very light. I still had a little bit of my summer tan left over, so that always looks good with white.”
Your biggest black-tie fashion faux pas: “The only time I’ve really second-guessed my choice is when I attend a black-tie event and people are dressed more in cocktail attire. It makes you feel overdressed. People don’t really know what black-tie rules are anymore. But then again, most of the rules have been thrown out the window.”
Close the door on these accessories
Whether you’re going to an opera or a ball, there are some things that should be left in the closet. For instance, keep the 100 percent polyester dresses at home. No, we’re not just being fabric snobs. Some synthetics don’t breathe as well as natural fibers. Instead, try silk and matte jersey, or even a lovely light chiffon.
You may feel sexy in your favorite micro-mini, but save it for more private occasions. Besides being inappropriate attire for a black-tie affair, you’ll have to worry about whether you’re flashing anything you shouldn’t be when you cross your legs to sit down.
In a city like Chicago where the temperature is unpredictable, a coat is part of every woman’s wardrobe at least half the year. But when you’re attending a very fancy affair, leave the down jacket in your car and slip into a stole, shawl or cape to keep your shoulders warm.
As fashion designer George Simonton notes, “There’s nothing worse than a beautiful gown with a raincoat covering it.”
Jane magazine senior fashion editor Eric Nicholson adds, “Traditionally you’d wear a fur coat over an evening gown. But honestly, it’s kind of chic to walk in with your husband or boyfriend with his jacket over your shoulders. That’s a timeless look and very feminine. Or you can suffer for the five minutes it takes to get from your car to the theater.”
Don’t worry so much if you don’t have enough money for a new dress. Rummage through a vintage store, borrow from your mother (or grandmother), or check to see if your local bridal store offers rentals.
You also can try accessorizing a favorite black dress with a brooch or a piece of jewelry. But unless you’re going to an event at the Kentucky Derby, don’t opt for a hat.
“People go terribly wrong with hats,” Nicholson says. “As a general rule, they’re just not very contemporary.”
And while it may be tempting to go for a completely retro look (a la Sarah Jessica Parker), most women can’t pull off a vintage Audrey Hepburn-style gown and a 1960s beehive without looking like they’re going out trick-or-treating.
If you’re not feeling comfortable piecing together your own outfit, do what a lot of fashionistas do — there’s no shame in nicking a few ideas from your favorite fashion magazine to get an idea of what you like, what you can afford and what may look good on you. Just do us one favor, please. Steer clear of the mid-calf length dresses. Unless your legs are a mile long, that’s a very difficult look to pull off.
