The spice of the Caribbean: Flavors of jerk chicken, peppers a festival draw

450 Carifete7_Photo-by-DENTON-MORRIS-682x1024By Jae-Ha Kim
Chicago Tribune
August 20, 2008

The Chicago Carifete celebrated its 13th anniversary Saturday in Hyde Park with music, costumes and a parade. But it was the mouth-watering Caribbean dishes that attracted some of the fest’s most loyal attendees.

“We love the food because it tastes really authentic,” says Arlene Levels of Indianapolis, who traveled with three bus loads of foodies for this year’s Carifete. “And it tastes really authentic because the vendors are all from the Caribbean. This isn’t something you can get in a mall.”

She and her friends Carla Lewis and Baretta Shannon began their day eating Jamaican beef patties—a dish traditionally made with beef, hot peppers, thyme and paprika stuffed into a doughy pocket.

“I could just eat this every day,” said Shannon. To prove her point, she went back in line but wasn’t sure whether she’d be tempted to get the same treat or try a different dish.

There was a lot to choose from: besides standard fare such as hot dogs and nachos for the children, the offerings included curry goat, sweet and tart plantains and a cabbage medley seasoned with allspice and mace.

Hyacinth Burgess—the Belizean owner of Ms. Chini’s Kitchen—said that one of her booth’s most popular sellers is the hot and spicy conch fritters.

“I’ve had a booth here since the beginning and I see a lot of the same faces coming back for more each year,” she said. “Americans like to try new things and once they like something, they want more. Some people are surprised at how spicy the food can be, but once they become accustomed to it, they can’t stop eating it.”

As to what defines Caribbean food, Burgess said it’s not one ingredient—but rather a theme. “If it’s hot, it’s Caribbean,” she said with a laugh. “We love our hot spices. Belizean cuisine uses lots of habanero peppers. Jalapenos aren’t hot enough for us.”

With its low-key atmosphere and family-friendly environment, the Carifete attracted foodies of all ages. Unlike other fests that frown upon picnickers, Carifete welcomed folks who brought their own food as well.

Kelley Hunte and her husband Melvin have Carifete on their annual list of “must do” events, which also include the Bud Billiken parade and picnicking at Ravinia. With their tents set up and their grill going, they had their own menu for friends and greeted others they recognized from previous years.

“It’s funny ’cause a lot of people attend the Carifete, but if you come enough you get to be friends with a lot of the people,” said Hunte of Calumet City. “They also know that we share our food! My husband jerked some chicken. He’s from Suriname and can cook like nobody’s business. But he won’t tell anyone how he makes his jerk chicken. He makes all the Caribbean cuisine in our family and I make the stuff from the U.S.”
Alex Floutsis drove in from the Northwest suburbs with friends for his first Carifete. After getting his plate of beans

and rice, jerk chicken, sweet potatoes and plaintains from Heron Valley, he said, “This is the best plantain I’ve ever had. The seasoning is unbelievable.”

As for the chicken, he nodded at his friends and said, “This is outstanding and has a flavor all its own. The drive from Schaumburg to Hyde Park was worth it just for the jerk chicken alone.”

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